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Getting Started With Slic3r 



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Getting Started With Slic3r 

Written By: Eric Weinhoffer 

SUMMARY 

So you have a 3D Printer and a 3D file, but now what? Well, you have to slice it up into 
layers and create a .GCODE file, which you'll then send to your 3D Printer. There are many 
options for slicing parts in preparation for 3D Printing, but Slic3r's nice because it's Open 
Source, free to use, relatively quick, and extremely customizable. 

I'll describe how each of the many settings relates to the actions of your 3D Printer, and how 
to correctly adjust them to optimize your machine for your application. I don't have 
experience with tweaking all of these settings (there are a lot), but I'll do my best to describe 
what they do. 

I recently read RichRap's fantastic guide, Slic3r is Nicer , and recommend that you give it a 
read as well. Although Rich has a lot of nice photos and great explanations in his tutorial, it 
is almost a year old, and a lot has been added to Slic3r since then. Unlike me, he does 
cover extruder calibration in his tutorial, which is an optional, although beneficial, process. 

The manufacturer of your 3D Printer most likely provides either their default slicing settings, 
from which you'll have to manually enter numbers into Slic3r, or an exported profile. If you 
have a .INI Slic3r profile, I'd recommend starting with that and tweaking settings from there 
(you can import a profile in Slic3r by going to File -> Import Config). 

*Unless otherwise noted, photos of prints in progress are from John Abella . 

*Main photo is from the Slic3r homepage . 

Disclaimer: Despite the fact that I provide good starter settings here, there is no "set 



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Getting Started With Slic3r 

formula" that will work well for all machines, so experimentation is required if you really want 
to optimize your prints. 

You can download Slic3r for free from the website or GitHub . Now open it up and let's get 
started! 



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Getting Started With Slic3r 



Step 1 — Getting Started With Slic3r 



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• The application is broken up into four tabs: Plater, Print Settings, Filament Settings, and 
Printer Settings. The Plater tab is the most self-explanatory, and typically the last place 
you'll end up before slicing, so we'll come back to that later. 

• One of the neat things about Slic3r is how easy it is to create, and recall, a bunch of 
different profiles. 

• After changing any setting, clicking the Save icon will bring up a text box, where you 
can change the name of the profile. 

• Try creating a profile not only for each separate printer, but for each specific 
type of print as well, like "Ultimaker Hollow Part" or "Ultimaker Super Fast." 







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Getting Started With Slic3r 



Step 2 



Slic3r 



Filament Settings Printer Settings 



Ultimate r 



_ij@(gl Laver height 



Infill 
: Speed 

Q Skirt and brim 
M Support material 

Notes 
c> Output options 
| Multiple Extruders 
Advanced 



G-ccde file exported to lUsers/eweinhoicf .■ , Downloa2 , s l 'MrJaws.gcode 









Layer height: 


[0.2 


mm 


First layer height: 


|lOOJS 


mm or % 


Vertical 5 h-e 1 1 5 


Perimeters (minimum): 

Randomize starting points: 

Generate extra perimeters 
when needed: 


a 




Horizontal shells 


Solid layers: 


Top:[F](3 


Bottom: [1 Q 



• The first subset of Print Settings is 
"Layers and Perimeters". The 
"Layer Height" is the distance the 
Z-platform (or extruder) moves 
between each layer. So, a smaller 
layer height will generally result in 
a better looking, smoother part, but 
will also take longer to print. 
Anywhere between 0.2 and 0.3mm 
is probably a good place to start. 

• The "First Layer Height" is exactly 
what it sounds like, and can be 
entered in mm or % (a First Layer 
Height of 50% will be half of the 
standard Layer Height). 

• Many machines on the 
market today will handle a 
layer height of 100 microns 
(0.1mm) without a problem. 

• Remember: a print with 
layer height 0.1mm will 
have twice as many layers as a 
print with a 0.2mm layer height, 
and will therefore take twice as 
long to slice and print. 



Gt 



*• 



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Getting Started With Slic3r 



Step 3 



PenrKten (minimum) 



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• Perimeters (or shells) are also important. A value of 2 here implies that the printer will 
draw two solid outlines around the edge of the part it's printing, on every layer. I've found 
that 2 is usually a good place to start, but 3-perimeter prints are common as well. 

• Randomizing the starting point of perimeters will prevent a visual indentation from 
appearing on the side of your part, so I'd recommend keeping that box checked. 
Allowing Slic3r to generate extra perimeters when needed is also a good idea. 

• Solid layers are completely filled in with plastic, which is why it's usually smart to have a 
few of them on the bottom and top of your part. I'd recommend doing at least two solid 
layers on the bottom, and stick with at least one on the top. 

• Keep in mind that if you're printing a very large part, each solid layer will take up 
a good chunk of time, so dial those values down if you value print time over part 
strength. 



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Getting Started With Slic3r 



Step 4 



Filament Selling* Printer Settings 



11®© 



-* Layers and perimeters 

% WM 

B Speed 

3 Skirt and b-rirn 
M Support materia! 
I Notes 

c> Output Options 

j Multiple Extruders 
..■- Advanced 



Mill 










partem: 






Fill density: 


|». 2 




Fill pattern: 


honeycomb 


- 


Top/ bottom Fill 


1 rectilinear 


- 









Ar.f.i'-rr;; 






Infill every: 




E~lf) "»« 


Solid inli]l«vtrv: 




IO@ ■""= 


Fi„an g , e : 




EOS' 


Solid infill threshold area: 


|70 Imra 3 


OnSy retract when 

perimeters: 


crossing 


D 



C-codt file t-sc&orttd to /Ustrj^ewelnhonV/OewniMdiJMrJnwj.georti 




• "Fill density" is the percentage of each layer that will be filled in with plastic (0.2 = 20%). 
You shouldn't have to go above 60% for any reason, unless you want a really dense part. 
20% fill is just fine for your everyday prints, but adjust at will and play with the parts once 
they're complete to feel the difference in structural stability. 

• A density of will only print the perimeter(s) of your part, so it will be completely 
hollow. 

• The "Fill Pattern" is the path that the extruder takes when doing the infill. These don't have 
a huge impact on structural stability of the part. The "Top/bottom fill pattern" is the pattern 
used on the top and bottom solid layers. 

• The advanced settings give you even more control over the infill, although I don't think I've 
ever touched them. "Infill every 2 layers" will alternate between layers of filled (with the fill 
density you chose) and hollow. "Infill every 3 layers" will have two hollow layers between 
every filled layer, etc. I've always left this at 1, the default. 

• You can also choose to insert a solid layer every layers, for extra stability. The "Fill 

angle" is the angle at which the extruder will do its filling paths, based on the axes' 
orientation of your machine. I don't see how changing this will affect your part very much, 
but it may have varying levels of impact based on the Fill patterns you use. 

• I typically leave "Only retract when crossing perimeters" unchecked, as is default. We'll 
learn about retraction soon, and then this will make sense. 



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Getting Started With Slic3r 



Step 5 



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Getting Started With Slic3r 



Filament Settings Printer Settings | 



Ullimaker 



•4 Layers and perimeters 
II Infill 

Jl Skin and brim 

Support material 

Notes 
t> Output options 
I Multiple Extruders 
Advanced 



Speed for prim moves 

Pari meters: 
Small perimeters: 
External perimeters: 

Infill: 

Solid infill: 
Tap solid infill: 
Bridges: 



mm/s 

wib/s or % 
™/S or* 
nim/s 
mm/5 or* 
mm/s or% 
mm/s 



Loaded /Users/eweinhoffcr/DocijmerHs/O'fteillv/Make/r.AD/Torture TestJtl 



Speed for rton-ppirn moves 








Travel: 


195 


mm/s 


Modifiers 








First layer speed: 


|30K 


mm/s or* 



• Now onto speed! "Perimeter speed" 
is how fast the perimeters will be 
printed. 50 is a good place to start. 
"Small perimeter" speed is how fast 
small features will be printed. This 
is typically slower than your normal 
perimeter speed, to give the plastic 
more time to cool down. 

• "External perimeters" are the 
outer perimeters of your part — 
the most important ones. I'd 
start with a speed similar to, if 
not exactly the same, as the 
standard perimeter speed, and 
go from there. 

• "Infill" speed is how fast your 
machine will print during the infill 
stage. Since clean lines and 
extreme accuracy aren't paramount 
here, crank it up! The speed I'm 
using here, 80 mm/s, is quite 
conservative, especially for the 
Ultimaker, but it's probably a good 
place to start. 

• "Solid infill" speed is how fast 
the solid infill layers will be 
printed. These paths are more 
important than your everyday 
infills, so keep this slower than 
your standard infill speed. Don't 
bring the speed down too much, 
however, since 100% infill layers 
take awhile. 

• The "Top solid infill" speed is 
how fast the top, 100% filled 



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Getting Started With Slic3r 



layer(s) will be printed. Since it's 
important that these look nice, 
keep this speed lower than your 
two other infill speeds. 

• "Bridges" are used to fill in a gap, 
where the extruder stretches 
filament between two walls over 
air. If the gap's any greater than 
around 0.5", you're going to get 
drooping, no matter how fast you 
move, but moving quickly will 
prevent anything major. Printing 
material and nozzle temperature 
will have an effect on plastic droop 
during bridging. 

• "Travel" speed is the speed at 
which your machine will move 
between two extrusion points. 
Since you'll never be extruding at 
this time, you might as well crank 
up the speed here as well. I'd 
recommend starting at 175 mm/s 
and moving up from there. 
Machines that use a light, Bowden 
extruder (like the Ultimaker) can 
move as quickly as 300 mm/s. 

• "First layer speed" will modify how 
quickly your machine prints the 
first layer. I'd start with 50% and go 
from there. Read the second part of 
Rich's tutorial on getting your first 
layer to stick. 



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Getting Started With Slic3r 



Step 6 



Filament Selling* Printer Settings 



j](d® 



Layers and perimeters 

Infill 

S.jee-d 

aUMIfflBffl 

M Support material 
I Notes 

c> Output Options 

1 Multiple Extruders 
..■■ Advanced 



L<n>ps: 


ID® 


Distance from object: 


in n- 


Skirt height: 


|l~|B *m 


Minimum extrusion length: 


mm 


Hn 






Biim width: 


jd | fflrt 



C-codt file eic&orttd to /Ustrs/ewelnhonV/OewniMdtVMrjnwj.georti 




• The "Skirt" is an outline around the perimeter of your part, drawn by your printer before it 
does anything else. This is a great opportunity to "prime" your extruder, make sure your 
nozzle's at a good height, and kill the print before it gets too far, if any adjustments are 
needed. 

• If your extruder typically takes a few seconds before the plastic appears, increase the 
number of loops, so it will makes its way around your part more than once. Typically, 
the skirt is kept at one layer high, and anywhere from 3 to 10mm away from the object. 



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Getting Started With Slic3r 



Step 7 




Filament Setting* Printer Settings 



* 1 1',— l] (d) S»PWrt mitcul 



Layers and perimeters 
Infill 
B Speed 

H Skirt and brim 

I Notes 

*» Output Options 

Multiple Extruders 

..■■ Advanced 



Generate support material: 
Overhang threshold: 
Pattern: 

Pattern spacing: 
Pattern angfe: 



• Automatically generating support material during slicing will cause your printer to print 
scaffolding under overhangs and tough angles, giving you better overall results once the 
support's pulled away. Just check that box, and Slic3r will do all the tough work for you. 

♦ The overhang threshold is the angle past which support will be generated. To prevent 
the machine from generating support for tiny protrusions that really don't need it, start 
with 45 degrees. 

• You can also select a pattern of support, just like you did with the infill, but it's probably 
more important here, since certain patterns are easier to break away post-print than 
others. "Rectilinear" is a good place to start. 

• The pattern spacing will also have a major effect on the structure of the support — a 
higher value will generate support that's easier to break away. The pattern angle is the 
angle at which the support will be printed, with respect to the X and Y axes of your 
machine. 

• Too low of a pattern spacing will yield support that's more similar to the rest of 
the part, and will be hard to break away. But, too high of a pattern spacing may 
not provide enough support for the overhangs. 



A 



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Getting Started With Slic3r 



Step 8 




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• Notes are useful for your own records, are completely optional, and have no effect on the 
print. After printing a part and noticing how your changes affected the output, type your 
notes in here so you know what to change in the future. 

• You'll only need to mess with "Sequential printing" if you have an automated way to 
remove parts from the print bed, and want to print many parts in sequence. I've never 
bothered with changing the "Output file" settings, but they're useful if you'd like create a 
standard format for GCODE filenames, for example. 

• The "Multiple Extruders" settings are designed for machines with just that — more than 
one extruder. Here you can specify specific tasks for each extruder, like support and infill. 



Step 9 



Filament Sellings Printer Settings 



Ultimaker 



_ii Layers and perimeters 
S Infill 

Speed 
l~1 Skirt and brim 
M Support material 
, Notes 

C Output options 
} Multiple Extruders 



L-.ii -.isi-O'i widtti 



Default extrusion width: 

First layer: 

Perimeters: 

Infill: 

Support material: 



mm at 
' mm oi 
mm oi 
mm or 
mm oi 



r % Cleave for auto) 
r % (leave for default) 
r% (leave for default) 
r % (leave for default) 
r% (leave for default) 



G-code file exported to /Users/ewemrioffer/Downloadi/MrJaws.gcode 



Row 












Bridge flow ratio: 


KZ 


ZJ 


Other 


Threads: 


KJQ 


(more speed but more memory .usage) 



• I haven't messed with any of the 
Advanced settings except for the 
"Extrusion width." With accurate 
plastic and nozzle information 
(which we'll enter later), Slic3r can 
adjust the height of the extruder to 
widen the width of extrusion. 

• You may want to bump the first 
layer width up past 100% in 
order to get the plastic to stick 
to the bed more efficiently, but 
I've never felt the need to adjust 
the other widths. 



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Getting Started With Slic3r 



Step 10 



&» nq 



[ Hater Print Sittings 

j) niraw 

Diameter; 
Extrusion multiplier: 

TertlittfUutt TO 

Extruder 



1 2,85 



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• Now we're moving onto the second main tab, "Filament Settings." Your machine probably 
came with some plastic, or you may have bought some other spools in different colors or 
materials. Your filament is advertised as being 3mm or 1.75mm in diameter, but that's 
never quite right. 

• So, take a caliper or micrometer to your filament at a few different positions, and 
average your readings. Input them into Slic3r. 

• The "Extrusion multiplier" will simply alter the value you just entered into the "Diameter" 
box. Unless you have a specific reason to do so, leave this at 1. 

• Extruder and bed temperature are also very important. You can specify a different 
temperature for the first layer. If anything, run your extruder hotter than usual to start, to 
promote extra gooeyness and stickiness. 

• For PLA, an extruder temperature of 185 is probably as low as you want to go (This 
Ultimaker profile is set for PLA printing). For ABS, I'd recommend starting at 220. 

• If you have a heated bed, use it at whatever temperature you feel comfortable with, since 
anything will help. For PLA, 60 is probably a good place to start, and 1 10 is good for ABS 
(although if your bed takes forever to get that hot, dial it down, so you won't have to wait 
hours for a print to start). 

• If you don't have a heated bed, keep the bed temperature at 0. If it isn't at 0, the 
print will never start. 



A 



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Getting Started With Slic3r 



Step 11 



Plater Print Settings ^ ^ Printer Settings 



Attn® 



Bubh 










Enable cooling: 


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Fan scHingi 

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8- or. e s Fan speed: 


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Disable Fan For the first; 


\n@ <■*" 


Keep fan always cm: 


D 



Cooling thresholds 

Enable fan iF layer print time ii below: 60 , '■ nwioximaw mcchhm 
Slow down if layer print time is below: 15 
Min prim speed: 



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Getting Started With Slic3r 

• Fan settings: If your machine doesn't have a fan directed at the extruder, you can skip this 
step. If you have a fan, check "Enable cooling" and read the description that pops up — 
this will intelligently cool the nozzle only when needed, and keep the fan off at all other 
times. 

• As you adjust the following settings, refer back to the description under the 
"Enable cooling" box to see how your edits will change the intelligent cooling 
activity of the machine during printing. 

• "Fan speed" is a percentage, and is really up to you. Do a few prints with cooling enabled 
and increase the minimum fan speed if you notice that your plastic is drooping or 
excessively sticking to the nozzle. "Bridges fan speed" is how fast the fan will turn during 
bridging — keep this high to promote cooling and less drooping. 

• I like to disable the fan for the first layer to keep the plastic as gooey and liquidy as 
possible, to keep it stuck to the bed (this is especially popular with PLA printing). You can 
also check a box to keep the fan on at all times, from print start to end. 

• The cooling thresholds give you more advanced control over when the fan starts. In 
general, layers with shorter print times are more difficult for the printer to complete 
successfully, and therefore benefit most from additional airflow. 

• The thresholds to set for decreased printing speed will come with time and lots of 
experimentation, but I think the times I have here are a good place to start. The "Min 
print speed" can be set fairly low, and will result in a great variation in print speed during 
a print with lots of challenges. 

• You may find that separate cooling thresholds are necessary for different parts, so 
creating a different slicing profile for each may be the quickest solution. Ex: one for 
tough columns, one for hollow objects, one for busts (where detail is important), etc. 



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Getting Started With Slic3r 



Step 12 



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Getting Started With Slic3r 



Plater Print Settings Filament Settings ™ 



V Custom C-code 
jj Extruder 1 



G-code file ewported to /Uiers.'Cwurte^cr/DownlQa.ds/MrJ-aws.gcQ'de 



Bed size: 
Print center: 
Z offset: 


x: 210 y: 21Q mm 

x:|P I y:|0 1"" 
| mm 


Firmware 






G-code flavor: 

Use relative E distances: 


RepRap (Marlin/Sprinter) | T ! 

a 


Capabilities 


Extruders: 


□@ 



• Now we can move onto the Printer 
Settings tab. Before we start with 
General settings, break out the 
ruler. Measure the length and width 
of your print area, and input the 
results into the "Bed size" boxes. 
The "Print center" should be half of 
the Bed length and width, so the 
print starts at the exact center of 
the build platform. 

• The Z offset is at Omm by 
default, and should be left 
there unless you frequently 
change to a build platform of a 
different thickness. If, for 
example, your heated glass 
platform is removable, you can 
set the Z offset to its thickness 
so your machine will 
automatically adjust for it when 
you slice a part with that profile. 

• The "G-code flavor" should be fine 
at RepRap (Marl in/Sprinter), but 
definitely take a look at the drop- 
down and select the one that most 
accurately describes your 
machine. The manufacturer of your 
machine and the electronics they 
use will be much more influential in 
this than I... 

• Leave the "Use relative E 
distances" box unchecked unless 
you're absolutely sure that your 
machine uses relative positioning. 
Most use absolute positioning, 
which states the end point of the 



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Getting Started With Slic3r 



current move in the G-code, 
regardless of where you are. 

• The "Extruders" number should 
only be changed from 1 if you have 
more than one extruder on your 
machine. If so, go back to the 
"Multiple Extruders" section of the 
Print Settings tab and mess with 
those settings. 



Step 13 



| Plater 


Print Settings Filament Settings | 




Ultimaker i 1 (M] l@ 


Start G-eode 












1^1 General 
V Extruder 1 






C21 

C90 

M107 

G28 XQ YG ;move X/Y to min endstops 

G2S ZO ;move Z to min endstops 

C92 XO VO ZO F_0 ; reset software position to front/left/z=O.Q 

CI Z1S.0 F[max_z_speed); move platform down 15mm 












End G-cade 












M104 SO ^extruder heateroff 

M140 SD cheated bed heater off (if you have it) 

G91 relative positioning 

Gl E-l F30Q ;rerract trie filament a bit 

Gl Z + O.S E-5 X-20 Y-20 F|travel_speed} ;move Z jp a bit 

C2S XO YO ;mow X/Y to min endstops 












Layer change G-code 





































G-code file exported to /Users/eweJnrol'cf/Downlojis.i'MrJiws.gcode 



• Custom G-Code is important, and 
is probably something that the 
manufacturer of your machine can 
help you with more than I can. In 
general, the "Start G-Code" usually 
includes commands to zero out all 
three axes, heat up the extruder 
and heated bed, do some sort of 
test extrusion, and start the print. 

• The "End G-Code" typically turns 
both the extruder and heated bed 
off, zeros out all three axes again, 
and lowers the Z platform for easy 
part removal. 



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Getting Started With Slic3r 



Step 14 



fi General 

,,jj Custom G-code 



| Plater Print Settings Filament Settings || 

)8@ S2 — 

Nozzle diameter: [674 mm 



Position {for mu I ti- extruder printers) 
Extruder offset: 



x: |p | y: 1 | mm 



G-code file eHported to /Users/eweinrclcr/DownlciJcVMrJaws.gcade 



Length: 
LiftZ: 








nirr 
mm 


zero t 


d disable] 


4.5 









Speed: 




H0 


mm/ 








Extra length on restart: 

Minimum travel after 
retraction: 


[d 




nirr 
nirr 






3 





Retraction when tool is disabled (advanced settircs for jnulti -extruder setups) 








Length: 3 mm [zero to disable] 


Extra length on restart: mm 



• Now onto the "Extruder 1" section 
of Printer Settings. The "Nozzle 
diameter" should be provided by 
your manufacturer, but if not, take 
a pair of digital calipers to it and 
measure it yourself. It will most 
likely be 0.35, 0.4, or 0.5mm. 
Giving Slic3r this information will 
allow it to accurately place 
extrusion paths. 

• Don't bother with "Extruder offset" 
unless you have more than one 
extruder. If you do, this is the 
horizontal and vertical distance 
between your extruders. 

• Since there's so much to 
talk about when it comes to 
retraction, I'm devoting the whole 
next step to it... 

• But before you go there, check 
out this video of a custom 
Ultimaker extruder retracting, so 
you can get an idea of what it's 
all about. 



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Getting Started With Slic3r 



Step 15 



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Getting Started With Slic3r 



Retraction 


Length: 
Lift Z: 

Speed: 

Extra length on restart: 

Minimum travel after 
retraction: 














4.5 


mm [zero to disable] 










mm 





















40 


II:) 


mm/s 

















mm 














3 


mm 












Retraction when tool is disabled i. 


dvaneed 


settings for rnulti extrjder setups] 


Length: 

Extra length on reslart: 














3 


mm [zero to disable] 





mm 



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• Retraction is one of the coolest 
features in Slic3r, and will greatly 
improve the quality of your prints. 
By retracting the hot filament with 
the extruder motor during travel 
moves, plastic oozing is prevented. 
The length of filament to retract 
before moving to the next extrusion 
path will depend wildly on the motor 
and gearing you have. 

• If you have no idea what to put 
here, I'd recommend starting 
with 0.75mm and moving up 
from there if you notice that 
you're still getting stringing 
between gaps. The value I'm 
using here is so high because of 
the Ultimaker's extruder gearing. 

• "Lift Z" will raise the extruder (or 
lower the bed) during retraction and 
before moving to the next path, 
where it will lower, in order to avoid 
knocking the part off the platform 
or dragging plastic with it. If you're 
building tall parts that may get 
knocked off the platform easily, set 
this to one layer height. If not, I 
would leave this at 0. 

• "Speed" is how quickly your 
extruder motor will reverse to 
retract the filament. You want this 
to be quick, so do some tests with 
your extruder and see just how fast 
you can retract. I'd recommend 
starting at 15mm/s and building up 
from there, since once again, 

Page 21 of 25 



Getting Started With Slic3r 



extruders will differ wildly in 
gearing and motor speed. 

• "Extra length on restart" is the 
length of plastic you'd like to 
extrude after travelling to a new 
path and prior to moving again. I 
don't use it, since it would just put 
extra plastic down where I don't 
necessarily need it. 

• The only application for this may 
be when your extruder has 
serious problems starting up 
again after retraction, but in that 
case I'd just recommend dialing 
down your retraction length 
and/or speed. So yeah, leave 
this at 0. 

• "Minimum travel after retraction" is 
the minimum distance required for 
the printer to retract at all between 
paths. In this case, if the two paths 
are closer than 3mm, the extruder 
won't retract, to prevent the motor 
from doing tons of unnecessary 
work during an extremely 
complicated print. I think 2mm is a 
good place to start. 

• The last two settings here are for 
multi-extruder setups. When one of 
the extruders is disabled, you can 
have it retract to prevent it from 
oozing while the other's working. 
You can also add extra length on 
restart here, where it may have 
more use, since extruders in a 



© Make Projects www.makeprojects.com Page 22 of 25 



Getting Started With Slic3r 



multi setup are often idle for longer 
and may require additional 
"priming". 



Step 16 



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• Now we can finally move back to the Plater tab! Load a part by clicking "Add", or dragging 
it into the grid on the left. The part will automatically snap to the center of your build 
platform. 

• You can add additional parts in the same manner, and then duplicate them by clicking 
"More" after selecting them (selected parts will be red). They'll be automatically arranged 
as you add them onto the plate. 

• You can also rotate the parts with the "45° ccw," "45° cw," and "Rotate..." buttons. 
Clicking "Rotate..." will bring up a text box, into which you can enter a specific angle. 
Scaling is also possible with the "Scale..." button, and works similarly to the "Rotate..." 
button. 



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www.makeprojects.com 



Page 23 of 25 



Getting Started With Slic3r 



Step 17 









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• If you import an assembly of multiple .STLs, like this "nautilus_plate" (file here ), you can 
split it up into its separate .STLs with the "Split" button. 

• This is useful if you needed to print a few extra gears, but also wanted to print a single 
piece of the other .STLs as well. 



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www.makeprojects.com 



Page 24 of 25 



Getting Started With Slic3r 



Step 18 




Happy §Mc]ngr 




• That's it! Enjoy using Slic3r. 

• I don't want this to be a once-and- 
done thing, so please email me 
(eweinhoffer@oreilly.com) or post 
a comment here if you have any 
suggestions on how to make this 
tutorial better. 

• If you'd like to contribute any 
related photos, that would be 
helpful as well, since this is a bit 
too text-heavy for my tastes. :P 

• The free in-browser G-code viewer 
used for a few of the photos is by 
Jeremy Herrman, and can be found 
here . 

• All test prints used in this demo 
can be found on the MAKE 3D 
Printing page . 

• The Ultimaker Slic3r profile used 
can be found here. 



This document was last generated on 2013-01-05 07:11:10 AM. 



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Page 25 of 25